Which labels are best?

TOP FASHION [Feb. 2001]

What brands are selling well, what are the most favoured themes, and where are trends headed?

We asked top international retailers to share their views about trends for autumn 2001 with us.

This winter season's strongest-selling brands and why?
Our out-and-out winner is Gucci. The brand's language is the best understood, probably also due to the impact of the aggressive advertising. Somehow, Gucci always manages to get something innovative across, to live up to expectations.

New promising brands?
Helmut Lang, since he's been with Prada. Now, the quality is good and the lines are perfect, yet without having lost any of the quite distinctive Lang signature. He is intellectual and therefore ranks alongside Gucci in our book.

Will you be featuring new brands in Spring-Summer 2001?
For Spring/Summer we have added Yves Saint Laurent. This is a mere act of faith in Tom Ford. The label will need to carve out a place for itself.

The segments that sold particularly well, and those that disappointed?
New Elegance was the winner this season, in coats, suits and separates.

What's likely to be the dominant trend in 2001?
Without any doubt, that supreme elegance and poise typical of Italy. Marvellous, classic materials in casually elegant cuts. The suit, the coat, and separates in an ideal mix of English and Italian taste. Accentuated shoulders once again. The quest for sumptuous detailing, such as button-on cuffs and sleeves.

Colours: Have you experiences been positive, and will you be going for colour again in the coming year?
In 2000, we really did sell a lot less black - with the exception of the things that came from Gucci. For Spring/Summer, we have been pushing sand and camel hues, plus deep - but not necessarily classic -blue. For Autumn/Winter, we are again favouring blue, and a resurgence of black, possibly teamed with stronger contrasting shades. And camel will remain.

Accessories: How important for you are shoes, and what brands do you stock or are you planning to stock in the future?
Shoes always get customers into the store - also new customers. We also have special staff for shoes, though anybody can sell them. Those that sell especially well are Prada, Gucci, Tod's, and Hogan. No surprises there. The way these labels communicate is irresistible.