My motto? Risk with passion

FASHION [20 February2004]

Six boutiques in Palermo , covering all sectors, from young to adult dressing without forgetting high fashion, and a growing turnover every year, Federico Giglio is a dream catcher, he foresees what women want. And Sicilian women, in terms of fashion are extremely demanding.

A four generations lasting success the one of Giglio. Giglio is a name, even better, it is a brand in power of opening the doors of the best ateliers in the world. As a matter of fact, Giglio could be considered as a exceptional case of a shop becoming brand itself.

Giglio’ s customers visit the shops sure of the good selections made for them. The items and accessories in the stores are the results of a meticulous and passionate research taking into account all fashion news in Milan, Paris, London, New York.
This is the fourth generation of the Giglio family. It all started in 1920, when Federico and Giuseppe great – grandfather opened the first store in the heart of the old town. Towards the end of the 60s, Michele, the third generation, is in charge and moves the boutique in Croci square, where all other shops are nowadays, Giglio In, Giglio Jeans, Giglio Piccolo and Emporio Armani. A new 350 square metres stores entirely dedicated to luxury prêt a porter is going to be open soon becoming the seventh shop of the Giglio enterprise.

Federico and Giuseppe naturally shared the job of the company between them. Giuseppe, the older brother deals with the administration of the shops, and Federico deals, in fact, with the most difficult job: buying the clothes. Federico has been working in the shops since he was a young boy, at the age of 22 he took his uni degree in Political science while he carried on working his way up. Now that he is 33 he is one of the most estimate buyers worldwide, that catches the attention of journalists and designers. Gaining his attention is important either for other enterprises or for the press, nonetheless success didn’t spoil this charming guy whose manners are those of a nice person, and still, he is able to say “no” in the most polite way ever, with a smile on his face.

What made you what you are, a buyer who handles the buying of six shops and 100 brands?
I worked my way up indeed. At the beginning I worked in the warehouses, then in the pricing, then I became clerk, clerk helper: I couldn’t deal with the selling, just watching, listening in silence and… wrapping clothes up. Finally I have been promoted clerk: eight years ago, when Emporio Armani opened, and I have been given the administration of the shop. Nothing is taken for grant here, you have to deserve promotions.

What difficulties did you experience at the beginning?
I didn’t want to disappoint my dad. I started travelling with him, I was his shadow, no matter who he was talking to, a clerk, a bank director, I was there, listening. When I say “his shadow” I mean it, he never asked for my opinion, in fact if I dared suggesting red, he would go for black.

When did the first exams begin?
I have a precise memory. We were at Versace’s, the seller invited my dad to the table to write the orders, as usual, but he sat down on the sofa reading the newspaper and he added: “it’s Federico’s turn now”. The second step was when he stopped booking two names on the Palermo – Milan but one, just for me: I have been going on my own for six years.

Any discussion?
My dad never interfered with my choices, he preferred letting me wrong than correcting me. When I started buying I was firstly concerned in non making mistakes, but my dad explained this is impossible: to make mistakes is normal. What makes the difference is trying to make less mistakes. To be honest, at the beginning you are so worried and concerned about everything that it is impossible to relax: when you become more confident, and everything seems to be going smooth, this is when first problems begin. And you need to know how to correct them. Since the beginning I got used to the fact that when problems come up you have to look what you have done first, you need to discuss with your collaborators and face the customers. Surely during these years I have seen many things changing: my dad used to work with a piece of paper and a pen, and I got hooked to my computer.

Six shops with different customers: from child to young, from jeans to high fashion: how can you deal with such a wide target?
What can I say…we embrace the hole family, or even better, we take care of them since they are kids! We have roughly 3000 names in our mailing list, our usual customers, all belonging to the high segment. A very demanding segment, but very homogeneous as well.

What have things changed now compared to fifteen years ago?
We normally say that when a person goes shopping we need to provide a good reason to make her stepping into Giglio and not in another shop. There are so many shops! Today the demand of motivation is higher than before. It is essential that the item is beautiful, well realized and with a strong brand representing it, with its good history at the back. When you sell an item for 2000 euros you have to sell poetry, dream with it, you need to satisfy ambitions. But, to be able selling emotions you must know a lot. Everything has to be working perfectly: the shop, the window shop, the clerk, the service, the tailor always available… no matter what customer wishes, it has to become reality in a click.

What about your relation with suppliers?
At the beginning we used to have many suppliers, we would buy less but in many suppliers. Six, seven years ago, in fact, we started buying more in less suppliers. Today we are cutting off the less important names to leave the floor to new designers and please our customers with new entries. To do so, Milan, Paris, London or New York are not enough, it is necessary going to Florence, Berlin and everywhere else interesting things might happen.

What could cause the higher risk of goods on hands?    
High fashion and, as well, some of our proposals anticipating time too much, and that it’ s only me liking them. But this part of the game, this is part of my price. In fact when I chose the collection of an important designer I try to make a mix, items to be sold and extreme items reflecting the image, the most difficult part to sell. And this is when I come into play.

Isn’t it all this too stressing?
Sometimes I wish sharing it all with somebody else. But I love my job too much and I truly believe that by having it all under control I can take decisions faster. In the end I am doing what my dad has always been doing, even if now it is different. But I have a big advantage on him: Giuseppe looking after the enterprise and Michele taking care of the most delicate part: the one of big decisions.

Giglio in Palermo
A bit of history
In 1920 the first Giglio store opened in Palermo town centre. The founder, Michele Giglio used to sell all useful things to the tailors. After him, his son Giuseppe starts selling textures for clothes. During the 70s, his nephew, who’s been named after his grand dad, Michele, moves the venue in Croci Square.

There are six stores today: Giglio Donna , Giglio Uomo , Giglio In , Giglio Jeans , Giglio Piccolo and Armani Emporio. Giglio In is has the biggest turnover. It has been designed by Carlo Scarpa and entirely renewed in 1990 by architect Rocco Magnoli who has re crested all Giglio boutiques layout. Right now the enterprise hires about 65 employees.
The family is always on the first line: Michele and wife Maria Teresa, their two sons Giuseppe, 35, and Federico, 33, and “Granny Pina”, 90 years old, who opens the children store every day.
The group deals with 100 brands at least, 90% of them are Italian, but also French, English and American. A new Giglio store is going to open soon in Croci Square despite the crisis of recent times: 350 square metres of luxury prêt a porter. The inauguration is going to happen within the end of the year.