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The Trench Coat: An Icon That Transcends Time
21/10/2025
As fall settles in and the air turns crisp, the trench coat reclaims its rightful place as the outerwear hero of the season. Originally designed to protect British officers in the trenches of World War I, thanks to the intuition of Thomas Burberry and his weatherproof gabardine, it has since evolved into a universal symbol of style, capable of blending function and allure. From Audrey Hepburn's rain-soaked strolls through New York to its countless cinematic appearances, the trench coat has become a shared language, a story of elegance, confidence, and timeless appeal.
Today, this icon doesn't just endure, but it evolves. Designers play with volumes and proportions, explore smooth or textured leathers, stretch its length to dramatic extremes, or crop it with modern ease, confirming the trench coat as the most flexible outerwear of the season, from the runway to the everyday wardrobe.
The most coveted trench coat still comes in timeless neutral colors, from beige to camel, from dusty grey to navy blue and black. These are colors that invite endless styling possibilities and flatter every silhouette. Alongside the classics, fall introduces contemporary shades such as burgundy and olive green, perfect for those seeking a sophisticated but understated touch. As for materials, traditional cotton gabardine sits alongside compact wools (warm yet clean-lined) and glossy or matte leathers that wink at a cinematic aesthetic. The result? A modular wardrobe where the trench coat becomes the foundation upon which to build an entire look.
Maisons have embraced two main directions: maxi cuts that almost brush the floor, and short, swingy cropped versions that hit above the knee. The first sculpts the figure with authority (beautiful over straight-leg pants or fluid dresses), while the second lightens and refreshes the style, especially when paired with denim and flat shoes. Both work well with the soft tailoring of the season and the sharp femininity that is seen on Max Mara's runway, where the camel coat-trench remains a manifesto of functional elegance.
Few elements, carefully balanced. A white T-shirt, high-waisted indigo jeans, and a beige trench coat tied at the waist are the ABCs of casual elegance. A clean sneaker or glossy Mary Jane instantly changes the mood. When temperatures drop, layering becomes key: an oversized ribbed sweater or a hoodie under a relaxed-fit trench adds visual rhythm without weighing down the silhouette. A small but significant tip: slightly rolling up the sleeves reveals the wrists and lightens the overall look.
The trench coat is a multiplier of authority, especially in camel or navy blue tones. Worn over a wide-leg suit or a pencil skirt, it elevates the look. Its vertical line elongates, while the belt defines and shapes the figure. With a grey mélange suit and mid-heel pumps, a navy trench creates an impeccable balance. For a romantic twist, replace the shirt with a pussy-bow blouse; the masculine/feminine contrast will be perfectly measured.
The most modern kind of elegance is effortless. A black trench coat (or ivory for a more "editorial" effect) slightly open over a satin midi dress frames the look beautifully, letting the draping do the rest. Complete the outfit with pointed boots or ankle-strap pumps. For those who like to play with the codes, a leather trench coat is a bold but refined choice: its cinematic feel, when paired with a silk blouse and sculptural earrings, becomes surprisingly sophisticated.
The trench coat is the ideal companion for slower-paced days. Choose a cropped style with a chunky knit, straight jeans, and loafers with a sturdy sole, practical, warm, and contemporary. If it rains, add an oversized wool scarf and rubber boots: a play of textures with pure functionality at its core.
A trench coat reveals its best through the details: a loosely tied belt, never too perfect, a collar slightly turned up on windy days, and buttons left open to create movement. Choices that seem random, but aren't at all.
Texture also matters: compact gabardine for daily wear, wool for winter in the city, leather for a stronger attitude. As for color, let yourself be inspired by the earthy tones dominating street style and the brown shades seen on celebrities and It-girls: a deep brown trench coat tied at the waist over dark denim and a white shirt is already an urban uniform in its own right.
Here, contrast rules. By day, go for large shoppers or soft hobo bags; by night, choose structured mini bags. On your feet, alternate between loafers (even chunky ones), ballerinas, or minimalist sneakers; at night, pointed boots or mid-heel pumps. An oversized wool scarf tucked under the collar and a pair of black sunglasses sculpt the face with precision. Jewelry moves between fine chains during the day and bold earrings for the evening. As for makeup: a rich red lipstick changes the entire mood in an instant.
The trench coat holds together what fashion often separates: practicality and desire, protection and charm. It’s a transversal piece, perfect for work, leisure, travel, and evenings, and lends itself to endless personalization. In a season that calls for conscious choices and thoughtful investments, the trench coat remains the purchase worth making without hesitation, always in tune with the times, yet forever timeless.